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  1. We love a good spud, and it’s the soft, floury new potatoes that are best. You know the ones: with a pale yellow interior, like freshly churned butter, and a thin, pop-in-the-mouth skin.

    Super Early Potatoes

    Potatoes can be classed as first earlies, second earlies, or maincrop. Look for varieties of ‘first early’ potatoes, which are the quickest growing of the lot. These can be ready as soon as 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

    Chitting Potatoes for an Earlier Crop

    In many regions potatoes are sold as ‘seed potatoes’ which first need chitting – or sprouting – to encourage a head start. Chitting can begin as soon as you can find seed potatoes in the shops, so as a first task go out and buy your potatoes…right now!

    To chit, place them into old egg cartons or similar containers, blunt end facing up. Keep them on a cool, bright windowsill. This is important because you want thick, sturdy shoots to emerge, not the weak and spindly ones that sometimes occur when there’s not enough light and/or the temperature is artificially high. Ideally you want the shoots to be at least 1cm (0.5in) long by the time you plant them, though it isn’t the end of the world if they’re not – aiming for thick, sturdy shoots is more important.

    Growing Early Potatoes in Pots

    The earliest ‘new’ potatoes found in the grocery store are usually grown on sun-facing slopes in mild climates. In Ireland  this means the (relatively!) sun-kissed fields of Southeast  , flanked by warming seas and blessed with rich, soils.

    For an early crop you want to mimic, as best you can, these sorts of conditions. This means growing them in containers in a protected, suntrap spot or, ideally, inside a greenhouse or polytunnel. These conditions will warm the potting soil the potatoes are growing in and substantially speed up their rate of growth.

    Your extra-early potatoes will need regular watering (one of the biggest mistakes is to let the potting compost dry out) and, once they’re producing lots of foliage, an occasional liquid feed for good measure. If you’re able to move the containers you could pop them outside when the weather warms up, though as long as conditions don’t get intolerably hot you may as well leave the potatoes growing where they are.

    Protecting Potatoes from Late Frosts

    If you can guarantee a frost-free environment, there’s no reason you can’t grow your earliest potatoes at least one month ahead of those growing outside.

    Keeping the stems and foliage (called ‘haulms’) safe from frost is the crucial bit if you don’t want to see your hard work undone. A few layers of horticultural fleece or plastic on a cold night will keep a light frost at bay and avoid a check to growth. If you’re able to lift the pots, consider placing some mats or newspaper inside a garage or shed and lifting your containers under cover for the night. Whatever it takes to keep Frost away!

    With any luck you will be able to enjoy your first golden spuds as soon as early summer or even late spring.

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    It's not only enjoyable for us to watch wildlife in our gardens or to teach our kids about nature and importance of caring for animals, but feeding birds all year round will encourage healthy birds. By simply putting out a bird feeder and keeping it clean and full will greatly improve the chances that birds and their offspring will survive.


    Birds will get used to your garden, they won't have a need to search for food elsewhere and will have nutritious food everyday. In exchange they ass a welcome splash of colour to dreary winter days and overall interest to your garden on many different levels. So  Please once you start and birds are used to coming in to your garden keep the feeders full, in this case QUALITY over the QUANTITY. Fill up in small amounts but more regulary.

    Are you new to bird feeding or you already looking after your garden birds and want to just check out few tips HERE ARE  SOME OF THE FAQ YOU MIGHT HAVE 

    • WHAT FOOD to feed garden birds :  if you want more diversity in your garden offer more vairety in food. ( See further below for more info on food ). In general its good to start with peanuts and sunflower hearts, they are both eaten by variety of species and have high protein and calorie contents
    • WHEN TO FEED as has been stated already above its good to feed birds all year round especially around spring breeding season and cold winter months are MUST. During these months natural sourses are depleted, small birds used lots of their energy to stay warm and shorter days means less time to find food for themselves. During breeding season food given to them in the garden is eaten by adult birds and that gives them more time and energy to source protein rich food for their offsprings.
    • WHERE TO  put out feeders in the garden. In general its good to place them somewhere near a bush or small tree, birds  can use this as a look-out point to make sure it is safe. And if there is such a spot near house that is idela. There is no need to hide them in the corner of the garden, birds will happilly visit feeders close to house, so you can enjoy watching them comfortably from your kitchen or living room. 
    • HOW TO LOOK AFTER FEEDERS Regularly clean your feeders to prevent spreading any diseases and build up toxins. Remove any stale food and wash with warm water and mild disinfectant and leave to dry thoroughly and to do so every 1-2 weeks. 

      It’s also worthwhile to switch the location of your feeders from time to time, so that there isn’t a build of droppings in any one location, and to spread your feeders around the garden so birds aren’t all coming together at one location.

      Though most of the bacteria and parasites that might affect birds have little impact on humans, it’s important to wash your hands properly after touching and cleaning your feeders – just to be sure!

    • WHAT NOT TO DO  most garden birds are not able to process SALT and will die if they eat too much. So don't feed them salted peanuts, chips, salty bacon or crisps

    • WHAT YOU SHOULDN'T FORGET Don't forget to put out water fot birds not only for drinking but bathing too. Water is just as important as food it will help to safe their energy which they would use otherwise in search of food. They will also spend more time in your garden and you would be able to observe them for longer.






















    PEANUTS :One of the most popular bird foods, and for good reason. They have a high calorie content (behind only sunflower hearts), are high in protein and they have no shell that birds need to wrestle off. Perfect if you want to avoid spillage and waste too. Be sure to hang them in an appropriate mesh feeder, and don’t use plastic netting bags. Take care to ensure no mouldy or shrivelled peanuts are in your feeders as these can produce aflatoxins which can kill birds. To avoid this, store them in a dry area and half-fill your peanut feeders at a time, allowing them to empty before refilling.


    NYJER NIBBLES  : Nyjer Nibbles are highly nutritious seeds. Packed in energy and rich in oil. It's the perfect food for beautiful GOLDFINCH and other garden birds including SISKIS and GREENFINCHES. Nyjer requires a specialised bird feeder with smaller holes as it can be quite messy

    BIRDS WHO LOVE THOSE : goldfinch, siskis, redpoll



    SUNFLOWER SEEDS :Sunflower seeds come in different forms – with striped shell, black shell or no shell (‘hearts’). Striped shelled sunflower seeds have a tough outer shell that’s difficult for birds to remove and they have a lower calorie content than the other varieties. Black sunflower seeds have higher oil and calorie content and a thinner shell too. Sunflower hearts are the best of the lot though as they have more oils and calories than the others, and no shell – so the birds waste no energy when eating them. They’re a bit more expensive as a result, but worth the money Tom Chambers Scrummy Sunflower Hearts are a husk free, no mess source of bird food. Packed with calories and essential oils.
    For use in seed feeders, on ground feeders or on bird table